Sunday, 31 July 2011

Trish's House

After a few days spent recovering from whatever I managed to pick up on the last leg of my trip, I have been spending most of my time around the house or with Ian and Michelle, since they leave to Canada today! I have been having lots of fun with my camera in Trish's house, as it is truly magical with the light, all her fabrics and beads, and all the colours and textures that go with them...here is the spare bedroom, where I sleep. It is full of beautiful things...a batik print by Esther on the bed, a hand embroidered cushion by Trish herself, a very old strip-woven Nigerian fabric hanging in the corner, and just visible indigo printed Dutch wax curtains. I'm in heaven!
No lack of colour with her signature glass beads - mostly made from recycled glass here in Ghana.
A beautiful wall piece that was part of a recent exhibition she had with a painter - and now shes adapting this particular style to be worn too. All hand embroidered!
More batik and great baskets, good light too
The yellow walls with blue door frames is reminiscent of Bib's house - good choice ladies!
Our TV-watching or reading chairs - Trish sits on the right on her very old piece of Ewe Kente cloth, and a cushion she has sewn an Ashanti strip into, and I lounge on the right on a beautiful indigo ikat from Nigeria. All hand stitched old cloths.

A yummy bowl of beads above...and lots of beautiful baskets for storage below
Lyla the African Grey Parrot - she is amazing and loves to copy sounds. Her favourite, starting at 6am, are exact replicas of taxi car breaks as they turn the corner next to the house, car alarms, cat call whistles, various other exoctic bird noises, and her incoherent radio mumbling. "Hey Bird!", "OK" and "Wow" are all done in careful copying of Trish's voice - and her birdy cackle and bird dance are equally amusing! She loves to have her feathers stroked so she sticks her head out of her cage in anticipation, but if you're not paying enough attention, she might take a bite out of a finger for you...
Her mini jungle verandah and gin-and-tonic drinking spot

Taking photos of her trade beads: some old (above), some new...and some painted (below)
Trish's "shop" doesn't look out of place in her living room...
Scarves found in the second hand market: mostly Indian
The blue kitchen - lots of bottles saved to be melted down into beads?!
Finally, a great kettle that has been stamped by hand, from Bida

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

Last stop at Lake Bosomtwi

After Daboya and Tamale, I started my journey back down to Accra. I really wanted to see Bib again and she invited me to spend the night so that's what I did last Sunday, and we both left early the next morning to Kumasi. I got off the tro-tro at Ntonso, the village I visited last year which is famous for its Adinkra cloth, and jumped in a taxi to Adanwomase, where I had met Gyimah and his great uncle, know as "The Old Man". Unofrtunately I didn't get my interview as the Old Man passed away in November, so I had to settle with his great nephew. For my last night I headed to meet up with Greetje and Arie, who were staying at the place called Lake Point on Lake Bosomtwi...
It was good to see them again, and we lounged by the lake, had mud fights in the water (the bottom of the lake is very slimy with a mud that bubbles up when you stick your toes in it - the only reason it is safe from Bilharzia), and tried to balance on the planks the fisherman use as "boats" in this meteor-made body of water.
Dinner in the lovely restaurant - with a beautifully decorated mosaic bench and bamboo curtains. We also got through quite a bit of red wine, and Stars, which is the local beer.

Sharing photos and making fun with the stories from our trips and past experiences in Ghana - all helped along by wine-induced laughter...and then I slept alone in the huge dormitory which is open from the metre-high wall to the thatched roof - so I fell asleep to shadows of the trees moving in the wind projected by the moon onto my mosquito net...

Daboya

After my stay at Hand in Hand, I travelled north to Tamale, spending 5 hours on the bus with another person I had just met the same day, a Dutch student called Marlou. She had been working in a village just outside Kumasi, and was taking a break for a couple weeks to travel around the country. We met up with Lars and Wendy who had travelled north the day before, and all 3 joined me to visit Daboya the next day. We woke up to catch the only bus that travels the bumpy road down the 60km that took more than 2hrs to drive. Upon arrival, we were dropped on the banks of the White Volta, where we had to proceed by canoe (above) to the village itself.
Throughout our guided tour (with Musa, who is part of the Eco-Tourism scheme set up in Daboya) we were followed by a group of grinning, but slightly intimidated, young children...all wanting to be photographed.
The "Chief's Shop" - where fabric gets sewn together into Smocks. Musa, on the far right, with his buddies from school who all work in the textile trade.
Musa showing off a "Guniea Fowl" patterned smock - the bottom half balloons out so that it can be swirled around as pictured below:
Young boys at their weaving stations
The indigo dying pits - a bunch of yarn being "aired" so that the oxygen in the air can activate the desired colour.
When it first emerges, the yarn is more of a turquoise colour, almost green...and has to be dyed multiple times to achieve the dark blue colour used to weave.
This is a fantastic photo of the dyer shaking out any leaves from the dye bath that have gotten stuck inside the yarn during the dying process
everything around the pits turn indigo, its a lovely sight since the colour is so rich
Even this man's hands, shoes and trousers are stained with the pigment
Having a go myself - much to the amusement of the locals!
My favourite photograph so far - two men relaxing and sewing next to the indigo-painted mosque
Close-up of the hand stitching on the old man's smock
Having a go at weaving too - the little boys either side of me were going lightening fast just to show that they were more skilled than the Obruni (local name for white person)
Fisherman mending his net in the shade - with a house being painted in the background
We caught wind of the fact that a fresh batch of fish had come in - so we went down to the river to take a look
A fisherman in his canoe, showing us his live bait
The salt beach where salt comes to the surface and is collected in the dry season - now it is flooded due to heavy rainfall.
My hands still stained with indigo
Musa showing off a hand-man smock he has woven and stitched himself:

Bib's house

In the short time I've know Bib Hughes, we have become good friends through many afternoons spent tea-drinking on her front porch, which took place almost everyday during my stay in Nkoranza. Above she is sitting with her Ghanaian partener, Razak, with their two dogs - Tula and Peace, and their adorable calf Cedric, pictured below:Tula standing between the lemongrass and the banana trees
Peace
All the animals waiting for Bib's return when she went out to pick up some stuff for dinner - and in the forground remainders of our banana and peeled orange afternoon snack
Cedric licking his chops - just having peed (again) on the verandah...
The kitchen window
Learning to cook a Ghanaian style dinner - my first try at grinding onion, salt, "pepe" (chillis) and tomato paste to make a sauce for our meat.